Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Across the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre area and over three thousand vines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by creating long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a barrier on

Briana Carter
Briana Carter

Seasoned casino strategist and writer with over a decade of experience in gaming analysis and player success stories.